v crucial geezer style from the dude on the left
JD in a special pair of bespoke Ambrosi Trousers.
This model is called the “marina” and is immediately recognizable by its waistband treatment. Reminiscent of old Navy uniform trousers, it’s cut without a fly or pockets and made in a heavy cream flannel as opposed to the more traditional navy wool or off-white duck canvas.
Salvatore Ambrosi will be visiting The Armoury New York on Friday, March 7th and Saturday, March 8th to oversee fittings and take new bespoke orders. To book an appointment, please email email@example.com or call 646.613.7613.
these, while beautiful, seem wild impractical. but the look as a whole is dope. def gotta get me some cream wallies for the spring time.
also i heard JD is leaving GQ, anyone know what his next gig is?
the most interesting man in #menswear
Real People: Layering Knitwear
Layering is usually done simple enough: on top of an undershirt goes a long-sleeved woven shirt, then a sweater, then a jacket, and finally – if the weather is freezing – you can add a heavy coat. In the cool temperatures of early spring and late fall, however, you can make a more interesting look by just laying knitwear itself. The principle is the same: the layer closest to your skin should be lightweight, and then on top of that you can add something heavier.
Our own Pete from DC shows how this can be done well. The black sweater is a fisherman’s rollneck by SNS Herning, and the knitted jacket is by Engineered Garments. It’s hard to tell from the photo, but the rollneck is actually knitted with a bobble stitch, which creates a slightly textured surface. A bit like my post on boring outerwear, the use of texturally interesting fabrics here keeps things pleasing without the need to turn to patterns or odd design details.
The jeans, if you’re wondering, are three-year old APCs, which are valued by many because they fade to that handsome sky blue you see above. The shoes were designed by Supreme in collaboration with Padmore & Barnes – the second of which was the original maker of Clarks’ Wallabees. Padmore & Barnes recently re-launched with a line of Irish made shoes. I admit I wanted to buy some of the boots just so I could say they “had to be, the best thing since my socks in Clarks Wallabees.”
This is definitely my favorite thing to pop up on my tumblr feed over the past few months. It’s a great take on how to translate #menswear to dressing for the “real world”. Pete’s writing for Put This On, as well as his own Breathnaigh tumblr is some of my favorite stuff within the blogosphere of guys talking about clothes.
Early in 2011, during my sophomore year of college, I picked up the latest issue of The Fader because Lil B, my favorite artist at the time, was the subject of one of the cover stories. But there was someone else on the cover with the Based God. I’d never heard of Young L before, but his mysterious cover photo stance and association with Lil B certainly piqued my interest. When I got back to my dorm, my friends and I looked up Young L videos on YouTube, and “Drop Top Swag” was the top result.
What came on the screen and through the speakers blew us away. We all sat around my computer, eyes wide and mouths agape, as our senses were completely bombarded. The beat was the most amazing thing to ever enter my ears. It had a dystopian-future sinister-robot slap, sounding like he was dissecting an android inside of a subwoofer, like a hyphy Starship Enterprise exploding in my laptop. I distinctly remember one of my friends saying, “This is the kind of music I’ve been imagining but could never find,” a sentiment we all felt.
The videography was even lower-fi than the stuff B was putting out. It looked like watching a poorly buffered home video on a phone, and L was half-ass lip syncing as he walked through a neighborhood playing with his iPhone. His lyrics were even worse than all but B’s most experimental stuff (“finna go gonna” is still among my favorite redundant rap phrases). But those elements seemed to add to the whole experience than detract from it. They made the whole thing a work of truly weird and captivating homemade rebelliousness. We spent the rest of the night immersing ourselves in our new discovery; watching every Young L video we could find, downloading songs and mixtapes, learning about his clothing company Pink Dolphin, which explained the logo on his chain and varsity jacket. We didn’t listen to anything other than Young L.E.N. for the next two weeks, if not longer.
Talking about the about feeling of discovering new music has become an annoying cliché, especially with the rise of apps like Pandora and Spotify, which make the whole process quick and convenient. But something about hearing Young L’s alien rap for the first time with other people who immediately felt the same way about it makes me not really care about that. It seemed perfectly aligned with what we were looking for and unable to find in music at the time. It felt like we found our own weird and special thing that was totally beyond what everyone else around us listened to.
About a year and a half later, as Young L’s music seemed to take a back seat to Pink Dolphin’s rapidly expanding business, a group of “bros” on campus started sporting his gear. Woah, I thought, these dudes listen to L? I couldn’t believe it. When I asked one of them if he listened to Young L, he gave me a look of total confusion and asked me who that was. I didn’t even try to respond. I had no idea what to say and walked away equally confused. At first I was mad; how can these guys rock Pink Dolphin and not know who Young L is? I was offended that they were bastardizing something that meant so much to me. I eventually got over my bitterness, and looking back now, I hope it inspired them to check out Young L’s music. And I hope if they did it became something special for them, too.